Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.